Norakura
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Ken and Kazuko Sasaki’s Norakura winery dates back to 2011, making it one of the first independent natural wine projects in Hokkaido. Ken and Kazuko studied oenology in France, worked with famous winemakers, and brought their knowledge of winegrowing, winemaking, and permaculture back to Japan. They started a winery in Motomachi, Hakodate on the Kameda peninsula that forms the southern tip of Hokkaido and began planted vines in the suburb of Hokuto, about 30 minutes northwest of the city. Since the beginning, the intention has been to work with a strong commitment to the environment and low intervention winemaking ideals.
 
In France, Ken and Kazuko studied at the prestigious University of Burgundy, earning degrees in enology and viticulture in the 2000s (Ken also pursued the Brevet Professionel Agricole, and important agricultural certification and Kazuko acquired the Diplome National d’Oenologue, the top degree in winemaking offered in France). From there, Ken worked with the legendary Domaine Leflaive in Puligny and natural wine trailblazer Domaine Binner in Ammerschwihr, Alsace; Kazuko spent time with Domaine Parent in Pommard and biodynamic specialists Chapoutier in the Rhône. All of these estates are notable for their commitment to farming: each are pioneers in the movement towards organics and biodynamics in French wine. 
 
The same commitments inform the Sasakis’ wines. Their vines are worked without industrial fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides, or other invasive treatments. Their focus is instead on improving the soils through natural fertilizers made with kombu kelp, rice bran, and wine lees, and encouraging biodiversity: tall grasses and helpful nitrogen-fixing cover crops like red clover serve as home to frogs, spiders, helpful insects, and bacteria. Today, they work with roughly three hectares of mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with smaller amounts of Savagnin and Pinot Gris and other grape varieties. They also work with grapes from other small farmers that work organically. 
 
In their cellar in Hakodate, Kasuko and Ken work simply in their cellar. Fermentation and aging is mostly done in neutral barrels, with some temperature control during fermentation. Some red wines are fermented whole cluster, others are destemmed, according to the nature of the vintage and the variety. Production is very small, and they avoid blending wines from different parcels or grape varieties before bottling. The wines are never fined or filtering. In the wines made with grapes from neighbors a small amount of sulfur may be used, but their own wines (like the Fumizuki) are made without added sulfur. 

The Wines


Norakura Fumizuki is 100% Chardonnay from the Norakura vineyard in Hatuko that is farmed organically with biodynamic treatments according to a philosophy of permaculture. The grapes were harvested by hand and pressed to ferment in 450L used barrels, then rested in the same vessels until bottling. Bottled without fining or filtering and no added SO2. 
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Location

General Info

  • Founded: 2011
  • Region: Hokkaido
  • Town: Hakodate
  • Village: Hatuko (vines), Motomachi (winery)
  • Climate: Cold Maritime
  • ​Vineyard Land: 3 Hectares
  • Farming: Permaculture with organic and biodynamic practices.
  • Grower: Ken and Kazuko Sasaki

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Photos courtesy of Alice Feiring.