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From Ms. Jancis Robinson.  Suertes del Marqués, Vidonia 2011 Valle de la Orotava
29 Mar 2013 by JR 90% century-old Listan Blanco (Palomino Fino) grown on volcanic slopes in the north of the island and fermented in 500-litre used French casks, kept on the lees for 11 months and otherwise pretty much left alone. I would venture to suggest the great draws of this wine are the soils and the age of the vines rather than the variety. There is not that much nose (apart from an unexpected hint of something lightly oaky) but there is masses of substance and fresh, tangy personality, building on the finish. This has the same sort of uncompromising acidity, weight and dryness as a fine, slightly austere white burgundy. Interesting that the acidity is so high when this is not exactly a characteristic of Palomino Fino's most famous wine, sherry. Well done for finding it, Indigo in the UK and Jose Pastor in Richmond, CA. It opened out very convincingly in the glass. Quite a find! Suertes del Marqués, 7 Fuentes 2011 Valle de la Orotava 29 Mar 2013 by JR Century-old and younger, ungrafted vines of which 90% are Listan Negro, the red wine grape indigenous to the Canary Islands, and 10% Tintilla. Most was aged for a year in concrete tanks with 10% aged for the same period in 500-litre French oak. Pale red. Fruity, peppery fruit and quite light with some of the island's volcanic soils showing through. Very appealing, round and early-maturing. Transparent fruit and a satisfying finish. A grainy quality - or am I thinking of the famous black sands of Tenerife? Long. Comments are closed.
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